The neckline is worked back and forth for 16 rows, working raglan increases on right-side rows before and after each of the raglan markers, and at the same time increasing by 1 stitch after the first stitch, and 1 stitch before the final stitch, on rows 3, until you have 10 stitches at each end of your work.
At this point, it's a great idea to try on your sweater. Put it on carefully, and close the front with safety pins (as if it was buttoned up). If your circular needle isn't long enough to allow the sweater to rest against your arms & body then move some stitches to a spare circular needle or to a piece of waste yarn. Try pinching the armpit points together so they meet under your arms. Bear in mind that you will be adding 5 stitches under each arm when you separate the sleeves, so they won't sit as tightly as they do now. If you think it's too tight, do a few more raglan increase rounds. If you think it's too big, step backwards by frogging a few rounds.
On the next right-side row (row 17), with colour C1: Knit to the first sleeve marker, remove the marker and put the sleeve stitches on a holder. Use the knitted cast-on method to cast on 2, place a marker, use the knitted cast-on method to cast on 3. Join up to the stitches on the other side of the sleeve stitches and keep knitting. Repeat in reverse when you reach the next sleeve: cast on 3, place a marker, then cast on 2. Knit to the end. (12, 32, 12)
Work in stocking stitch for 54 rows in total, Following the stripe pattern and adjustments below:
Rows 18 to 18 (1 rows): work in stockinette in C1. |
Rows 19 to 20 (2 rows): work in stockinette in C2. |
Rows 21 to 28 (8 rows): work in stockinette in C1. |
Rows 29 to 32 (4 rows): work in stockinette in C2. |
Rows 33 to 38 (6 rows): work in stockinette in C1. |
Rows 39 to 44 (6 rows): work in stockinette in C2. |
Rows 45 to 48 (4 rows): work in stockinette in C1. |
Rows 49 to 56 (8 rows): work in stockinette in C2. |
Rows 57 to 58 (2 rows): work in stockinette in C1. |
Rows 59 to 71 (13 rows): work in stockinette in C2. |
After row 72, work in in seed stitch for 1.1cm:
Rows 72 to 79 (8 rows): work in seed stitch in C2, and:
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Bind off (from the wrong side). Weave in ends
Reset your row counter to zero - sleeve row counts will be given counting from the first sleeve round as round 1.
Put the live stitches for the left sleeve onto a circular needle. With the right needle tip and yarn in C1, pick up and knit 2 stitches between the center of the underarm and the first stitch on the needle. Work across the stitches on the needle, then pick up and knit 3 stitches between the last stitch on the needle and the center of the underarm. Place a marker, join here and begin working in the round.
Work in stocking stitch for 23 rows in total, Following the stripe pattern and adjustments below:
Rows 1 to 1 (1 rows): work in stockinette in C1, and:
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Rows 2 to 3 (2 rows): work in stockinette in C2. |
Rows 4 to 11 (8 rows): work in stockinette in C1, and:
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Rows 12 to 15 (4 rows): work in stockinette in C2. |
Rows 16 to 21 (6 rows): work in stockinette in C1, and:
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Rows 22 to 22 (1 rows): work in stockinette in C2. |
After row 23, work in in seed stitch for 1.1cm:
Rows 23 to 27 (5 rows): work in seed stitch in C2. |
Rows 28 to 30 (3 rows): work in seed stitch in C1. |
Bind off in seed stitch. Weave in ends. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Starting at the bottom edge of the cardigan's right front side, and using colour C1, pick up and knit as follows: 60 stitches along the right front edge, (3 stitches in every 4 rows), ending at the right front raglan "seam" , pick up and knit 4 along the sleeve, pick up and knit 10 along the back, pick up and knit 4 along the sleeve, pick up and knit 60 stitches along the left front edge (3 stitches in every 4 rows)
Work in seed stitch for 6 rows (1.1cm).
On the first row, work one k2tog decrease at the center back of the neck, to make the total number of stitches odd. Then work each row as follows: [ k1, p1 ] 68 times, k1.
Bind off (from the wrong side). Weave in ends